Yesterday, spring masqueraded as summer and produced a perfect day for diving. Rays from the sun fell from a cloudless sky. And the surface of the sea reflected those rays of light now dipped in rich colour. But, for so many reasons, what was to follow, was to magnify our impressions well beyond what might have been expected. The scenes we were to experience under water, under an emerald mosaic effect, were even more dazzling and much more dynamic than those hinted at from above.
Dive #1 Magic Point: Caught in the ebb and flow of a frequent surge, was no real hurdle for us. It meant holding our position when the flow was against us and being spring loaded before the sea ebbed in the opposite direction and we were then catapulted forward where we were headed. A bit staccato-like, but an effective method to go forward in this situation. It worked very well and soon we were flung off a small cliff and down an imaginary slippery slide to a cave full of fish. So full of fish was this large cave, that I doubt even one more Blennie could have found a spot within. In fact, so many fish were waiting outside. It was like a nightclub with a queue of revellers trying to get in. Inside the cave, Stripeys together with Pomfrets were in a VIP area up high, whilst so many Long Fin Pike took up the stalls below. In diving, you look at a scene too long at your risk. This is how I missed an Eagle Ray swooping down to look at this same scene itself. The line between spectator and what was being looked at was once again becoming less distinct. So this Eagle Ray provided a good reward for anyone looking in the 'wrong' direction (David)!
Eager for more discoveries, we swam further south. This time, people looking in the 'right' direction, were rewarded amply by the scene of a thousand fish, spread out around us like a snow dome (David's accurate description. He similarly gave an excellent description of fish yesterday at Macquarie Lighthouse being so plentiful as being not in 'schools' but in 'universities''). Further away, those fish, mainly One Spot Pullers, were silhouetted against the diffused light from above. Along side of us, they assumed a sharper relief and greater detail. They stretched their muscles, fins, and bodies generally and occasionally made a deliberate effort to look straight at us. The scene was amazing: so many fish producing a magical spell which was clearly being used on us. And that spell was potent. I had to snap out of the reverie these fish had caused us to enter such was their grip on our spirit and mind. These fish had no need for a swinging watch to hypnotise us.
Whales! I will be castigated if I forget to mention the whales we also saw both on the way down the coast and later on our way to our second dive site. And, in addition, I need to mention the couple of sun baking seals we also encountered on our way to Magic Point.
Dive #2 Old Man's Hat: As is always the case, moored close to a tall sandstone cliff face, it was hard not to stop doing anything, and contemplate this magnificent interface between land and sea. The pleasure from diving comes from so many sources. Nevertheless, as beautiful as this scene was, we knew where we wanted to be - underwater. So it was not long before we were descending into the depths below those same cliffs which had once witnessed the birth of this country. The cavalcade of people who or objects which made history (one way or another): Captain Phillip, enemy midget submarines, battleships, smart clippers, ocean liners, royalty, adventurers, et al, had all passed by this very site. Now it was our turn to see the building blocks of an aquatic history rich in its own stories.
Following a key-pattern of underwater gaps between boulders and reef outcrop, we eventually made our way to a surprise swim through: I use the word 'surprise' here simply because you can never be sure what is within this particular swim though: Wobbegong shark selfishly taking up nearly all the space within, Giant Cuttlefish sheltering there, etc. On this occasion, before entering it, we had to almost climb over a shark, a Port Jackson shark this time. And from that point we slid into and through the swim through. Emerging at its exit, the sandy base of the reef enclosed space was full of sharks! I stopped counting after seeing at least 11 in this small broadly tube shaped enclosure. Above them, a small school of Yellowtail, rotated as a decorative mobile might.
Reaching the main sand line, we made it our mission to find a Weedy Sea Dragon. Passing by decorative sponges, we made the discovery that everyone was hoping for: a Weedy Sea Dragon fluttered its fins, and exhibited fabulous colours on its side. Nobody wanted to leave this beautiful creature with a body sprayed in oranges, purples, black, yellows, and white - all arranged in patterns evoking a type of royal livery. But to stay longer at this depth, would mean compromising our 'no deco' time. So we farewelled this unlikely shaped and extraordinarily coloured creature.
Meandering through an underwater maze, with boulders instead of hedges, we continued our underwater journey. The unexpected often awaits you at each turn and at one of these we were greeted by the spectacle of Morwongs hovering and huddling together at our eye height. I think we caught them in the middle of an animated conversation. Theirs mouths were moving quickly and their faces were almost pressed against each other - presumably to add emphasis to what they were saying. Given that we normally see Red Morwongs (which are really pink), lazing around on some boulders below, rarely willing to even move an eye lid, this sight was as unexpected as it was entertaining. If only we could have understood the source of this heated debate. A solitary Talma must have been equally interested in this commotion, as it swam over to also have a look. And then a brightly coloured Fusilier, also by itself, came over. To counter-balance this solitary fish activity, a school of Old Wives, swam into view. It has to be noted that a school of Old Wives, slowly swimming by, is always a sight to behold.
On such dives, there is always so much to see and so much to record. 'Highlights" inevitably leave out things which nevertheless deserve mention: like the turtle swimming at Old Man's Hat, lobster, Swimming Anemone and friendly Giant Cuttlefish. And so much more that is permanently etched in the memory of those who put on scuba gear yesterday.
Both dive sites offered the critical and uncritical diver a smogasborg of delight. The fact that such underwater scenes are dynamic made them infinitely exhilarating. Diving in Sydney is always a pleasure, but even more so yesterday. It was a reminder that each day one does not dive, is a lost opportunity to behold miraculous underwater scenes. This is why I try not to allow a week to pass without diving so as not to miss out on seeing and visiting one of the last frontiers of untainted life so close to home. And on a day like yesterday's, when the sea is all painted in glitter, there is only one place to be.
Eric